Some of the Carter B&B 1 barrel downdraft and some Stromberg BXV, BXVD & BXVES have a dashpot built into the carburetor. This dashpot resides on the inside on the opposite side of the accelerator pump and is often mistaken as another accelerator pump because it looks like one. Only one particular complete dashpot is available aftermarket at this time, but our rebuild kits include replacement cups for many dashpot carburetors when needed.

DASHPOT TYPE BB CARB

This picture illustrates where to find the carburetor number and also the difference between a carburetor with and without the dashpot. The dashpot type of carburetor usually was placed on vehicles with automatic transmissions.

Can the dashpot type be disconnected, or replaced by a non dashpot type? This would not be recommended, but also depends on the type of transmission. If the transmission is a semi-automatic, then the car may stall when slowing or coming to a stop; that is what the dashpot prevents. Even when the dashpot solenoid is disconnected, you would still need the presence of the kickdown switch used with Fluid Drive, Hy-Drive -- whatever -- on that particular carburetor. If the tranny is manual, then it never had a dashpot or a kickdown switch to begin with and disconnecting it should do no harm. Don't ask me why Chrysler determined that their system had to be electrical, because most dashpots used from the '50s on up were passive. Perhaps it has to do with the semi-automatic (as opposed to fully-automatic) nature of their transmissions back then.

The dashpot is used on some vehicles with automatic transmissions. When letting up on the accelerator the dashpot will keep the throttle valve from completely closing long enough for the extra fuel to get burned in the engine.The complete dashpot is not manufactured, but our kits for these carburetors do include a repair kit to replace the leather cup.

REPLACING LEATHER DASHPOT CUPS

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Place the dashpot in a vice (there should be a washer on top of the cup) as illustrated and using a drift punch beat the rod out of the cup. In some cases you will need to grind the peened over material on the end of the shaft. In this case drill a hole and insert a small self tapping screw to hold the new cup onto the shaft.

Place the washer, cup and spring onto the rod. Put in a vice and press the cup onto the shaft. Use a 1/4" drive socket on the cup end so that it isn't damaged. If the cup fits loose you will have to drill a hole in the end and install a screw to hold the cup on. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the shaft. Bending it would not be good.

Polish the dashpot well so that the cup glides smoothly.

Put 2 small drops oil onto the cup before installing.

DASHPOT TYPE 1 CARBS

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When the engine is under load the piston #3 is in the up position and the well #4 if full of fuel.

When the throttle is released to go back to idle, the piston #3 returns to the down position. In order for this to happen the fuel must be discharged through the orifice #2.

The restriction at #2 retards the the closing of the throttle and avoids a too rapid of return.

The adjustment for the dash pot is at #1 and is normally set at 5 full turn out (counter clockwise)

Turning the screw further out will retard the idle return more. Too much will affect the shifting up of the transmission.

The transmission has to synchronize before shifting and if the RPM falls off too slowly when the throttle is released, gear change will be retarded.

DASHPOT TYPE 2 CARBS

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This type of dashpot is controlled by a solenoid. When the engine is below 8 MPH in slow speed range, or under 15 MPH in high speed range, the transmission governor points close, which energizes the dashpot solenoid #3, through the electrical terminals #9. This raises the solenoid core #4, which permits the ball #7 to reach upper seat when piston #1 moves down. When the ball #7 is on it's seat, fuel is discharged through the restricted opening #6, causing the throttle valve to close quickly.

When the car is above 8 MPH in slow speed range, or above 15 MPH in high speed range, the transmission governors points are open and the solenoid #3 is not energized and the solenoid core #4 is held down by the spring #8, which prevents the ball #6 from seating. This allows free flow of fuel from the cylinder through passage #2 and fuel opening #5. This permits the dashpot plunger to operate freely without causing the throttle to close slowly. The slow closing of the throttle is not desirable above the speeds given, but is necessary at low speeds due to the action of the fluid drive.

OE DASHPOT NUMBERS

Here is a crossover list of dashpot carburetor and which dashpot they used. Please note that this is only a list of what we now know about. Some could be missing.

CARBURETOR NUMBER(carter) DASHPOT NUMBER CARBURETOR NUMBER(carter) DASHPOT NUMBER CARBURETOR NUMBER(carter) DASHPOT NUMBER CARBURETOR NUMBER(carter) DASHPOT NUMBER
628S 64-74S E6W1 64-74S E7L4 64-77S EV2 64-77S
D6J1 64-74S E6W1R 64-74S E9A1 64-77S
D6M1 64-77S E7A1 64-77S E9N1 64-77S
D6P1 64-74S E7J1 64-77S E9B1 64-74S
D6P2 64-74S E7J2 64-77S E9T1 64-74S
DTL1 64-77S E7J3 64-77S E9U1 64-77S
DTL2 64-772 E7J4 64-77S E9V1 64-77S
E6N3 64-74S E7L1 64-77S EA1 64-74S
E6S3 64-74S E7L2 64-77S EB1 64-74S
E6T1 64-74S E7L3 64-77S EB1R 64-74S
E6T2 64-74S E7J4 64-77S EE1 64-74S
E6U2R 64-74S E7L1 64-77S EG1 64-77S
E6V1 64-77S E7L2 64-77S EG2 64-77S
E6V2 64-77S E7L3 64-77S EV1 64-77S