The Carter BB-1 is a type of updraft carburetor. If you're mentioning the "accelerator pump" in the context of this carburetor, it refers to the mechanism in many carburetors that provides an extra burst of fuel when the throttle is suddenly opened, helping to prevent engine hesitation or "stumble."

The accelerator pump system consists of a pump chamber, pump plunger (brass), spring, and a discharge nozzle or jet. Here's a simple overview of how it works:

  1. Idle or Low-Throttle Condition: When the engine is idling or at low throttle, the accelerator pump is not active. The pump chamber is full of fuel, and the pump plunger is at its highest position, held up by the spring.
  2. Throttle Opens: When the driver pushes the gas pedal, the throttle opens. This creates a sudden demand for more air and fuel to accelerate the engine.
  3. Pump Activation: As the throttle linkage moves, it pushes down on the accelerator pump plunger. This action forces fuel out of the pump chamber and into the discharge nozzle.
  4. Fuel Discharge: The fuel is squirted into the venturi of the carburetor, which provides the engine with a momentary rich mixture to accommodate the rapid increase in air. This helps prevent any hesitation or stumbling as the engine tries to accelerate.
  5. Return to Resting State: When the throttle is released or when the extra fuel isn't needed, the plunger is pushed back up by the spring, and the pump chamber fills with fuel again, preparing for the next time the throttle is opened rapidly.

Regular maintenance and checks are crucial to ensure the proper functioning of the accelerator pump system. A damaged or ineffective accelerator pump can result in engine hesitation or "bogging" when the throttle is opened quickly.

If you're working on or troubleshooting a Carter BB-1 or any carburetor, it's essential to have a repair manual or appropriate reference material. Remember always to take precautions when working with fuel systems to ensure safety.

ADJUSTMENT

The pump link is provided with two holes to receive the pump link screw, giving short and long strokes to pump piston. For winter driving, in Northern climates, link screw should be set in outer (top) hole, which gives longer stroke, supplying maximum quantity of fuel for acceleration.

If this does not give desired results, the main metering jet, check valve assembly and pump valve assembly should be removed and cleaned with compressed air.

TROUBLESHOOTING

ACCELLERATOR PUMP STUCK (BRASS)

The brass accelerator pump assembly will come out of the main body when you remove the top of the carburetor, assuming you didn't disconnect the pump lever.

Brass doesn't seem to mix well with cast iron and these pumps tend to get stuck when there is any corrosion going on. When the pump is stuck, apply heat to the outside. They will usually slide out. Worst case, drill a hole from the outside and using a drift punch drive it out. My guess is that if it's this bad, the carburetor is toast. Tap the hole and add a screw or small bolt to plug the hole. Ethanol will eat any epoxy, so try not to use any epoxy, or adhesives.